First Look: The Lucky Accomplice in Fox Park
Today, Wednesday, Sept. 30, sees the official premiere of one of the most anticipated restaurants of the year: The Lucky Accomplice (2501 S. Jefferson Ave.), a new concept from chef Logan Ely and his team. Ely closed his other restaurant, Shift, a few weeks ago to focus on the new spot, though he aims to reopen it when it’s possible to return to the lauded tasting menu experience he offered before the pandemic.
The Lucky Accomplice represents the merging of long-gestating ideas with the opportunities that arose out of the transformation of Shift during the pandemic. “We always wanted something fun and big,” Ely said. “We had a team where we were able to expand - it kind of worked out a little bit.” The present moment is even reflected in the new restaurant’s name: “When Shift was open, it [was] our accomplice, and we were lucky to have the team in place to expand,” he explained. “Now, we are kind of playing off the line, ‘Make your own luck.’"
Ely describes the menu as a la carte, approachable and fun. Ten dishes round out the page, including Bluepoint oysters with dashi mignonette; sweet potato bread with whipped quark (a cheese) and golden raisin gremolata; and a bonito Caesar. The everything tater tot features cured salmon, cream cheese and “everything” seasoning, while a dish comprising chicken cooked in yogurt includes beans, sour cream and fermented potatoes. A massive toasted raviolo stretches over the edges of its plate.
Desserts include a pear tarte tatin, a maple panna cotta and a lil’ John doughnut.
A modest cocktail list includes about five drinks, though the large bar should make it easy to order beyond. The screwdriver slushy has vodka, orange juice and vanilla whip, while the Jungle Bird features rum, campari and pineapple. The Lucky Accomplice combo includes either Busch and Jameson or Snapper and Comoz vermouth.
For beer, there are about seven cans available, including locals like Perennial Artisan Ales and domestics like Maplewood, Stillwater and Anxo. Drafts include 2nd Shift Brewing and Urban Chestnut Brewing Co., as well as a batched, house-made Pimm’s Cup with gin, cucumber and ginger beer.
Around 10 wines are offered by the glass, including sparkling, white, red and dessert. Bottles are available as well.
The Lucky Accomplice has limited seating indoors and six patio tables outside. “You can have a very safe meal here indoors,” Ely said. “I feel fine doing it.”
The restaurant will be open for dine-in and carryout from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday. For more information on seating, dishes, merchandise and more, check out the slideshow below.