the dining room at knead photo by izaiah johnson

2018 Best New Restaurants // No. 9 Knead Bakehouse & Provisions

Walk into Knead Bakehouse & Provisions on a Thursday morning, and, along with a “Hello sourdough” neon sign, you’ll be greeted by a surprising number of staff. From the 5-year-old sourdough starter used in the bakery to the brass utensil holders on each table, this place is built on attention to detail – including a level of service that far exceeds its size and counter-service setup.

The “Eat MO bread” pennant and copious succulents would mean nothing, however, if the French toast wasn’t magnificent. Thick brioche slices, soaked in custard batter and grilled to caramelized sweetness, are topped with rotating jams like the pear-pawpaw number we fell in love with, as well as a savory-sweet dollop of creme fraiche for a rich, balanced dish that doesn’t induce a sugar stomachache. 

Lunch offers a solid selection of sandwiches, soups and salads, but for that remarkable French toast and any iteration of Knead’s egg sandwich (we like the brioche bun filled with thick, crisp bacon, scrambled eggs, smoked Gouda or cheddar, tomato, greens and a dill-heavy herb aioli so good it could convince us to order a cardboard sandwich), we recommend arriving before 11 a.m. 

That will also ensure a full bakery case with enough bready doughnuts and cinnamon morning buns to share. Purchase a full loaf of your favorite bread to bring home, and don’t sleep on the immensely satisfying, rich and savory everything bagel kolaches. – H.H.

Heather Hughes is managing editor, print at Sauce Magazine.