First Look: Sureste at City Foundry in St. Louis

Regional Mexican cuisine has been seeing a renaissance lately in St. Louis, and chef Alex Henry’s new City Foundry STL (3730 Foundry Way) restaurant, Sureste, is an exciting addition. Henry previously served as head chef at Cleveland-Heath and Nixta and has cooked at restaurants like Vicia and Brasserie, but this is his first solo spot.  

“The concept is southeastern Mexican cuisine, like Yucatan, but using ingredients available in St. Louis, with a few exceptions,” Henry explained, adding that the menu would be seasonally based and would rotate frequently. Indeed, at Sureste local ingredients are key: Whole pigs come from Rensing Hog Farms, while tomatoes are sources from Tony’s Family Farms. Fresh corn is ground in-house for tortillas. 

One centerpiece of the menu is Henry’s cochinita pibil, a pulled pork dish traditionally cooked in the ground and served with tortillas. “But they wouldn’t let me dig a hole in City Foundry,” Henry said, laughing. Sureste will also offer chilmole, a dark mole dish that uses burnt peppers and spices; the chilmole will come with turkey, pork meatballs and a hard-boiled egg. The toksel features toasted lima beans cooked in a cast-iron skillet, though the dish usually has chefs cooking using hot rocks. “The health department wouldn’t let me cook with rocks,” Henry pointed out with another laugh.

Dips include guacamole, frijol colado and sikil pak; Sureste will also offer tamales and ceviche options. A few traditional beverages will be available, including a coconut- and rice-based agua fresca called horchata de coco.  

The restaurant will be open for breakfast from 9 to 11 a.m. and for lunch and dinner from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. every day but Tuesday.