2019 Best New Restaurants // No. 8 Morning Glory Diner
Ask about the pie. That’s what the sign above the register says, and we trust Morning Glory knows what it’s talking about.
It’s rare for a restaurant to accomplish everything it attempts. Morning Glory isn’t anything fancy – chef-owner Ari Jo Ellis doesn’t try to “elevate” diner fare or put her chef-y spin on anything. She just makes damn good food.
When Ellis was named a 2016 One to Watch as a 20-something sous chef at Southern, she knew she wanted to open this exact diner, down to a prescient sense of her future location. “I would love a place as small as Southern, something real small,” she told Sauce at the time, not knowing she’d end up in the tiny, 30-seat former Vista Ramen on Cherokee Street.
Pull up a seat at the short bar in the familiar space, which Ellis managed to transform into a comfortable, friendly diner while barely changing anything at all. The biscuits are fluffy, and the pitch-perfect gravy is always freshly made. The breakfast sandwich is exactly what a diner breakfast sandwich should be: a perfectly fried egg, crisp, thick-cut bacon and American cheese on white bread.
Don’t miss the chicken and johnnycakes. The fried chicken is moist and tender with a substantial cornmeal batter crust complemented by light, faintly sweet pancakes. All you need is hot sauce and syrup.
Really, there’s nothing new here – just classics in as good a form as you can find them. Give yourself a present, and drop by for two cups of good, hot, black coffee and maybe a slice of pie.
Heather Hughes Huff is managing editor at Sauce Magazine.
More stories like this
Eat these veggie dumplings at Thai 202 in St. Louis
The steamed veggie dumplings at Thai 202 are like little gifts.
First Look: Chicken Scratch at City Foundry in St. Louis
Chicken Scratch is now open at the City Foundry STL at 3730 Foundry Way in St. ...